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There can't have been many better moments to visit North Yorkshire.

Sun beamed down on the rolling hills and fields and was matched by the gregarious disposition of locals and visitors alike, and the yellow-painted bicycles hanging outside pubs and schools ... it was the week before the Tour de France swept all before it across the hills and dales of the country's largest county.

We spent the days leading up to the grand depart at Thief Hole Cottages between Northallerton and Thirsk - a few miles west of the North Yorks Moors, and a slightly longer drive east from the Yorkshire Dales.

Warm welcome: Every detail is looked after at Thief Hole cottages - including complimentary champagne...

Specifically we occupied the two-person Fawkes Cottage – one of four in the swishly converted barn buildings arranged in a square horseshoe around a flagged courtyard.

There is another one-bed, a two-bed and a four-bed property available for rent – and there's no doubt that apart from their individual appeal, the cottages would be a good option for a large group of family and friends. 

The buildings are red brick and roofed with terracotta tile, in keeping with the style in the surrounding rural and agricultural landscape, and inside they've been beautifully finished. 

Not your average barnyard: The four cottages are expensive barn conversions and sit in tranquil countryside.

It's obvious from the paperwork received in advance that owner Jessica is thoughtful and thorough – and that impression is confirmed when you find fresh flowers, some champagne and a local paper sat on the kitchen table, together with a hamper of bread, fruit, butter, milk and all sorts of other local goodies.

There's a whole load of stuff too for those with babies and children that can be provided on request - saving, I should imagine, a gallon of space in the car.

The cottage was a homely place to relax in the evenings, we were just a little disappointed it was too warm to get the woodburner going. 

This a good thing because the only pub within walking distance was closed at the time of our stay. There's not much within an easy walk of the property so those staying here must be happy getting in the car or on the bike or the bus.

Tour de Yorkshire: Locals and visitors alike responded to the race's visit with massive enthusiasm - but North Yorkshire is a delightful place to visit in the absence of major sporting events...

The kitchen was better equipped than our own and the bathroom, my partner noted, 'has to be the cleanest I've ever seen'. Victoria also assured me the bedding and toiletries were top notch, all of which went to justify Premier Cottages' promise of luxury properties and high standards.

The basket full of espresso capsules sat next to the coffee machine was a welcome sight on our first morning, and breakfasting on the complimentary bread and fruit we picked though the hefty collection of maps and local information provided for guests. 

Creature comforts: The cottage interiors have been finished to high standard.

A custom-made Ordnance Survey that had been centred on the property was a nice touch that impressed this map-lover and pathfinder.

While field paths and bridleways through surrounding fields do stretch out from Thief Hole, most keen walkers will want to jump in the car a few miles east and strike out in the Hambleton Hills and the North Yorks Moors beyond.

As will keen cyclists (see box right) – but those after a more gentle ride have it on the doorstep of Thief Hole with quiet flat lanes spreading north-east towards the River Swale. And ensuring that no one who rocks up at Thief Hole could find options lacking, the owner can also arrange local golf and spa days.

The beauty and peace of the place were enough for us though – and also the local buzz that anticipated the Tour's arrival.

Despite the travel difficulties of closed roads and overburdened public transport, it seemed half of northern England were turning up to view the race in all its monumental yet fleeting glory, when the world's top cyclists would hurtle down its lanes and highways for two days of midsummer.

But Thief Hole and its surroundings show you don't need an excuse like that to rush to this unspoiled and friendly corner of country.

Romantic: The well-preserved ruins of Rievaulx Abbey on the edge of the North Yorks Moors make a fascinating daytrip.

Nous revenons: The cyclists might have gone for the moment but the rolling hills and dales, picturesque villages and great pubs are still there to welcome the lucky explorer