And baby came too... A relaxing trip to Costa Rica is living proof that long-haul travel with a toddler doesn't have to be a nightmare


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'It'll be hell with a baby', said my friend, mother-of-two, a little bit too cheerfully as I stuffed another wad of nappies into the side of a duffel bag.

'Sand everywhere, mosquitoes, constant re-application of suncream, and jet lag. Why do you think I haven't been on holiday abroad for the last four years?'

And with those encouraging words ringing in my ears, my husband, 18-month-old daughter and I were off for our first family holiday... to Costa Rica.

We spend our days between the kids pool, which is of course necessary if you want to avoid a heart attack every few minutes, and the beautiful beach

We spend our days between the kids pool, which is of course necessary if you want to avoid a heart attack every few minutes, and the beautiful beach

Tal Gottesman braved a long-haul flight to Costa Rica with baby in tow for a family holiday at the Andaz Peninsula Papagayao Resort - but once she arrived, she didn't regret it for a moment

Tal Gottesman braved a long-haul flight to Costa Rica with baby in tow for a family holiday at the Andaz Peninsula Papagayao Resort - but once she arrived, she didn't regret it for a moment

The journey was long, and not direct, and if I'm honest, a little bit painful at times but we miraculously managed to avoid full on meltdowns and a long weekend stopover in New York was lots of fun.

Before we knew it, we were disembarking in Liberia, off to the Papagayo peninsula on the northern pacific coast of Costa Rica.

Having travelled through the country on rickety buses with backpacks for several weeks on our honeymoon a few years before, this trip was to be all about comfort, ease and relaxation. 

Any relatively new, tired parents will know that once you've packed the seven thousand items you now seem to need at all times, and faced the joys of a long flight, you may not have the mental or physical capacity for much else. 

Even though children are well catered for and  welcome, the resort really prides itself on peace and tranquillity

Even though children are well catered for and welcome, the resort really prides itself on peace and tranquillity

The Andaz Peninsula resort seemed to know exactly what we needed. Good food (and lots of it), cocktails, beautiful spa facilities and incredible views were all on tap - and despite the fact children are brilliantly catered for and more than welcome, the resort really prides itself on peace and tranquillity.

Costa Rica's 'Pura Vida' catchphrase resonates throughout the Andaz experience - a hybrid of 'take it easy' , 'hakuna matata', and 'don't worry, be happy', we are told that it is a term that means a lot to the people of this country who try to live by it. 

While we could have picked a holiday destination closer to home, there's something about being disconnected here, something really unique to this country that we felt on our previous visit and really wanted to feel again.

Costa Rica's 'Pura Vida' catchphrase resonates throughout the Andaz experience - a hybrid of 'take it easy' , 'hakuna matata', and 'don't worry, be happy'

Costa Rica's 'Pura Vida' catchphrase resonates throughout the Andaz experience - a hybrid of 'take it easy' , 'hakuna matata', and 'don't worry, be happy'

Nothing is too much trouble at Andaz nothing is stressful, nothing is formal. The staff are miles ahead of other places we've visited in their genuine friendliness, desire to help and can-do attitudes. 

My toddler, not a fan of sitting still at a breakfast table for more than three or four seconds, was totally indulged as she went wobbling from buffet station to waiter to other guest tables. 

We actually managed to drink entire hot cups of coffee while watching her wander around - and as any parents of young children will know, that is a privilege not to be sniffed at. This may sound like terrible parenting, but she really was actively encouraged to play and genuinely seemed to disturb no one. It took all the stress out of 'eating out' that we routinely avoid at home by, well, just staying in.

Having travelled through the country on rickety buses with backpacks for several weeks on our honeymoon a few years before, this trip was to be all about comfort, ease and relaxation

Having travelled through the country on rickety buses with backpacks for several weeks on our honeymoon a few years before, this trip was to be all about comfort, ease and relaxation

The resort boasts good food (and lots of it), cocktails, beautiful spa facilities and incredible views on tap

The resort boasts good food (and lots of it), cocktails, beautiful spa facilities and incredible views on tap

We spend our days between the kids pool which is of course necessary if you want to avoid a heart attack every few minutes, and the beautiful beach. There's much frivolity and splashing around while my husband assumes lifeguard duties and I lie on a sunbed and relax. I do reapply suncream too many times to count, but I truly barely notice. 

There is also an adults only pool, obviously a necessity for those travelling sprog-free because, let's face it - there are only so many times you can enjoy being hit in the face with an inflatable ball.

In the evenings, we order from an extensive room service menu, or take advantage of babysitting facilities and visit one of the three resort restaurants. 

TRAVEL FACTS 

Standard Rooms at Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort start from 400$USD, on a room only basis, excluding taxes.

We particularly enjoy the Chao Pescao, where small plates are served in a bar setting and the food is absolutely delicious. We end up eating so well throughout our stay that it is not only my daughter who is sporting a little pot belly upon our return.

Nestled among the trees with a view over the spectacular blue bay you are literally living amongst the wildlife here, with monkeys swinging through the trees. 

The resort's local and celebrated architect, Ronald Zürcher, stayed true to the Costa Rican philosophy when realising his vision for the resort and the end result is that you feel like you are always in outdoors, even when you're not. 

The rooms are designed with the same values in mind - they sort of 'flow' from the outside in, with vast wall to wall and floor to ceiling windows, and beautiful balconies. 

We choose a suite, the huge benefit for families being that we get both a bedroom and a living room. In the evenings we are able to put the baby to bed in one room and enjoy the space and surroundings in the other without having to sit in the dark in silence. It is really worth the extra expense.

Importantly for parents who haven't had a real rest in months, there is a kids club open every day at the resort with a great selection of toys and games, a playhouse, and plenty of safe outside space

Importantly for parents who haven't had a real rest in months, there is a kids club open every day at the resort with a great selection of toys and games, a playhouse, and plenty of safe outside space

And perhaps most importantly for some parents who haven't had a real rest for many, many months (or years), there is also a kids club open every day with a great selection of toys and games, a playhouse, and safe outside space. 

The staff are utterly charming and endlessly patient with the exhausting offspring and do a sterling job of occupying them while their parents drink jugs of sangria by the pool (this may or may not have been us).

So, what about the suncream and sand, the mosquitoes and the jet lag? I returned home delighted to report to my friend that it was not hell at all. Not even close - I want to do it all again.

 



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