travelling-blogger

comments

The pace of change along central Vietnam's coastline is dizzying.

As we drive along the beach road between the Unesco World Heritage sites of Hoi An and Hué, rows of luxury holiday resorts are being built on any spare piece of land overlooking the white beaches.

'Five years ago there was nothing here – this road we're driving on wasn't even built,' our guide Trong tells us. 'Local fisherman used to live in huts along here. Now this area is turning into Vietnam's new playground.'

Just beautiful: The Lang Co peninsula is one of the Vietnamese sites where new resorts have appeared

It is hard to tell from the tone of Trong's voice whether he welcomes the construction boom because of the jobs that are being created – or whether he is alarmed at the upheaval.

While the arrival of mass tourism is certainly altering the landscape in central Vietnam, things have a long way to go before they reach the scale seen in large swathes of Thailand over the past 20 years.

And although the big-name brands have arrived, alongside manicured golf courses designed by Nick Faldo, Greg Norman and Colin Montgomerie – it also, we soon discover, takes only a five-minute cycle ride to reach traditional villages where virtually no English is spoken, and the main occupation remains rice growing in the paddy fields.

Among the new resorts is a Banyan Tree – which, along with its sister hotel Angsana next door, is situated beneath the Truong Son mountain range.

A place of history: Hué was the capital of Vietnam's Nguyen dynasty, and wears its heritage in bright colours

This is currently the only resort on a crescent-shaped bay near Lang Co, a remote area of fishing villages and jungle, midway down the central coast.

There are plans to add another six hotels and a casino to the area, but when we arrive there is little other evidence of new development.

As we approach the resort, we can see emerald-green paddy fields spreading out for miles, flecked by conical bamboo hats shielding farmers from the midday sun.

We see very little of the resort until we were right upon it. It has been nestled into the shadows of the mountains, keeping it from dominating the skyline.

It is a resort of villas, its sloped pagoda-style roofs modelled on the traditional houses of the old imperial city of Hué, with plunge pools and infinity pools slotted in.

During our visit, we suffer several days of unusually cold and wet weather, so our trips to the beach are limited. Fortunately, there are plenty of non-beach related activities with which to fill our time.

A stretch of sand to soothe the soul: Lang Co is one of the Far East's most idyllic spots

We opt to take the hotel bikes to the centre of Lang Co, some 13 miles away.

Our plans bemuse the hotel staff, who say guests tend to use them to get around the resort, rather than for any longer excursions.

Within a couple of minutes we realise why. Those imposing granite mountains prove something of a challenge for our one-gear bikes to get over.

But after a lot of panting and inevitable pushing, we find ourselves cycling through quaint hamlets where homes have small grocery shops spilling out of their front drives.

Some front rooms and gardens have been converted into noodle stalls, with plastic chairs and tables neatly set with chopstick holders and small plates of thick-cut limes, fresh chilli and garlic.

As we cycle past, a growing gathering of Vietnamese children run – or in some cases cycle – after us with big grins on their faces.

Over and over again they shout: 'Hello, how are you?'

Shadows fall: The Truong Son mountains rear up above the central coast of Vietnam

We are hoping to buy wine in Lang Co, somewhat afraid of the mini-bar prices. But all we can find are cans of beer or bottles of the local firewater ruou – a sticky distilled-rice liquor.

Declining the chance to sample this home-brew at leisure, we come upon two floating restaurants on a nearby lake. This proves to be a thoroughly authentic experience – the seafood in our noodle dishes sourced from two attached fish farms. At 50p a head, our meal is certainly value for money.

Back at our hotel, we were glad of some luxury after our long ride. We both opt for a Thai Classic massage, and the aches fade away.

The resort is located at the axis of three Unesco World Heritage sites in Vietnam's 'cultural triangle' – the imperial city of Hué; the ruined Hindu temples of My Son; the former merchant town of Hoi An.

We fall in love with Hoi An within minutes. Its riverside setting and centuries-old houses give it a rich feel of history, colourful lanterns hanging along every street.

Green and pleasant land: Rice fields are an ever-visible presence in central Vietnam

Each morning, our five-minute walk into town from our riverside hotel, the Anantara, is a feast for the senses – a daily exchange of greetings with the manager of the aptly-named launderette Mr Laundry, an attempt to pass through the throng of locals haggling in a series of giant food markets.

The town stretches out into a series of shops, restaurants and cafes – many based in the teak buildings that traders once used.

And beyond, the soft sands and ice cold drinks of Cua Dai beach – a 30-minute cycle ride from the hotel – prove just as picturesque.