Fairway to heaven: Drink in the view on a golfing tour in Scotland's stunning Speyside


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The view from the ninth tee at Boat of Garten Golf Club suggests we've stepped into a 19th Century Highland landscape painting.

The Cairngorms loom majestically in the distance, a thin mist hovers above the trees and a steam train puffs through the silver birches. All that's missing is a stag.

On cue, a young deer darts on to the fairway, in apparent appreciation of the shot that my brother has just plonked on the green. My own effort is considerably less impressive, but it's hard to get downhearted while spending an afternoon knocking a little white ball around this heavenly corner of Scotland.

Beautifully refurbished: Craigellachie Hotel dominates the picture-book village 20 minutes south of Elgin

Beautifully refurbished: Craigellachie Hotel dominates the picture-book village 20 minutes south of Elgin

The Ryder Cup is coming to Gleneagles this month, but Scottish golf is about more than the rolling grandeur of Perthshire or the splendour of St Andrews. Situated between Inverness and Aberdeen, Speyside is barely an hour's drive north from the spot where Europe will do battle with America, and it offers Scotland in microcosm.

There are mountains, sea and wide, dark rivers; there is whisky, woodland and wildlife, including dolphins and ospreys. With good roads and a clement climate, Speyside is ideal for a week-long family holiday or a boys' weekend away.

Legendary Quaich Bar: The Craigellachie Hotel is famous for its selection of 700 whiskies

Legendary Quaich Bar: The Craigellachie Hotel is famous for its selection of 700 whiskies

Whisky, woodland and wildlife: Speyside offers Scotland in microcosm and is ideal for a family holiday

Whisky, woodland and wildlife: Speyside offers Scotland in microcosm and is ideal for a family holiday

We opted for the latter, with the emphasis on golf. From the abundance of superb courses on offer, we played Boat of Garten - a gem of a course in the Cairngorms National Park - and Elgin, but Nairn, Lossiemouth and Grantown-on-Spey are among several fine alternatives.

After a swift pitstop in the clubhouse, we strike north for Forres over the stunningly isolated Dava Moor. Our reward is the Knockomie Hotel on the edge of this neat little Highland town, deep in the heart of the Whisky Trail.

Every few miles reveals one famous distillery or another and next morning we make a beeline for one of them, Benromach - whose 10 Year Old Single Malt won gold at the 2014 World Whisky Awards. Perhaps it's the dram that does it, but our game picks up at Elgin Golf Club, a thoroughly satisfying parkland course. Home base that night is the beautifully refurbished Craigellachie Hotel, an imperious Victorian landmark that dominates the picture-book village 20 minutes south of Elgin.

Famous distillery: Benromach's 10 Year Old Single Malt won gold at the 2014 World Whisky Awards

Famous distillery: Benromach's 10 Year Old Single Malt won gold at the 2014 World Whisky Awards

We head for the hotel's legendary Quaich Bar, 120 years old and boasting one of the world's largest selections of single malts - around 700.

Speyside is a cosmopolitan haven. Alongside a healthy smattering of locals, the Craigellachie harbours a lively mix of well-heeled Europeans, South Africans, Americans and Chinese. Some are here to tackle the Speyside Way, the famous 70-mile route through the Grampians to the sea. Plenty more are taking a very personal interest in the whisky. But our quest concerns that little white ball.

Next morning we have one final date at Elgin, and we rise to the occasion. In truth, neither of us is ever likely to trouble the Ryder Cup selectors, but if Speyside has tested our limited golfing prowess, it has also provided an unforgettable few days of relaxation, hospitality and wonderful food and drink in simply stunning surroundings.

GETTING THERE 

British Airways (ba.com) offers return flights to Edinburgh from Heathrow, Gatwick and London City from £103 return. Knockomie Hotel (knockomie.co.uk, 01309 673146) offers B&B rates from £105 per double room. Craigellachie Hotel (craigellachiehotel.co.uk, 01340 881 204) has B&B rates from £150 per double room. For more information, visit elgingolfclub.com, boatgolf.com and visitscotland.com.




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