Going solo in Bora Bora: How to holiday on the world's most romantic honeymoon island ... ALONE


comments

Of all the 118 islands that make up French Polynesia, Bora Bora is a standout. The one with the most illustrious reputation, the heftiest price-tag and with the most slithering, oiled-up, loved-up and wrapped-up lovers.

An hours flight from Tahiti (about 143 miles), it's this far-flung positioning that's made Bora Bora one of the world's great honeymoon destinations; a peaceful, floating shag-pad for foreign newlyweds.

More marriages have been consummated on this island – and more bedsheets changed – than probably any other in the world.

Coconut for one: David cools off with a tropical drink as he enjoys the delights of French Polynesia

Coconut for one: David cools off with a tropical drink as he enjoys the delights of French Polynesia

From the airport on Motu Mute I'm met by Sofitel's private transfer boat, and skim across the open azure to a wooden pier jutting out into a lagoon. 

 

I'm with two couples: one Italian, married five days ago, and an elder French couple, celebrating their twenty-fifth wedding anniversary. We're met by the hotel manager, who waves in our arrival and is on hand with cool flannels to wipe away our European pong.

This is an island for pairs, for amoureux, where the frisson of love and romance is heightened in the sticky Pacific heat.

Hotel accommodation is positioned meters apart on stilted huts and overwater bungalows, for this very reason. Who wants to be next door to a newlywed couple bonking all night?

In 2009, the rom-com Couples Retreat was filmed on the island. Starring Vince Vaughn, Jason Bateman, Kristin Davis and Kristen Bell, the couples travel to Bora Bora and the fictional therapy resort, Eden.

The most stunning of destinations: There is no wonder Bora Bora is a welcome retreat for newlyweds and couples celebrating anniversaries

The most stunning of destinations: There is no wonder Bora Bora is a welcome retreat for newlyweds and couples celebrating anniversaries

Water bungalows: David was grateful the huts were spaced a few metres apart in fear of some noisy neighbours

Water bungalows: David was grateful the huts were spaced a few metres apart in fear of some noisy neighbours

In a presentation to showcase the retreat, pictures of sunlit beaches and beautiful landscapes are displayed, a sure way of demonstrating the island's unrivalled beauty. The premise: if couples can't reignite their passion here, then where?

Everything on the island appears to be designed with couples in mind; catering to the married, the just-wed, the anniversary-celebrators and men with their mistresses. What a shame I'm on my own.

So I run along the beach in the early-morning twinkle of sunrise and cool off in the Pacific. I dine alone at breakfast (on freshly-made croissants and waffles) circled by doting couples, exhaustion evident on their faces from last nights bungalow escapades.

I snorkel and scuba dive with the stingrays and lemon sharks, through coral reefs and the homes of colourful, Finding Nemo Clown Fish; followed by afternoon naps before kayaking in the great empty spaces of clear lagoons.

Solo scuba dive: But thankfully David had some beautiful fishes for company

Solo scuba dive: But thankfully David had some beautiful fishes for company

On the beaches alpha males peacock, forgetful of SPF-70 sunscreen, while lounging wives recline on towels, sunbathing in the hot air, re-reading tales of Mr Grey.

It's the paradise island glossy brochures tell you about. French Polynesia's greatest exports are pearls and panoramas.

The beaches are long, slithers of white sand; the Pacific water lapping-in and the lagoon-perched bungalows of the aqua-centric Four Seasons, St. Regis, Intercontinental and Sofitel Marara overlook turquoise seas.

Rows of palm trees confirm that you're on a desert island, but if you're still not convinced then you can paddle-board its circumference and practice the art of balance.

The island was formed as part of the rocky remnants of an extinct and sinking volcano. Its two highest peaks are Mount Otemanu (727 metres) and the twin-peaked Mount Pahia (658 metres).

One sticky and stifling afternoon, I headed inland and through the plush greenery of the tropical forest and breadfruit groves, and to the top of Otemanu. Quietly, peacefully, and all alone.

One evening I hired a bike and peddled along the dust-track roads to Bloody Mary's, the famous seafood restaurant which opened in 1979, and over the years has hosted the likes of Harrison Ford, Pierce Prosnan, Ringo Star and Meg Ryan.

One of the most romantic locations in the world: Guests can enjoy a candlelit dinner on their own deck

One of the most romantic locations in the world: Guests can enjoy a candlelit dinner on their own deck

So peaceful: Bora Bora is the perfect place to unwind

So peaceful: Bora Bora is the perfect place to unwind

Of a less impressive calibre, the camera-shy Kardashians, when staying at the £3,000-a-night Presidential Villa at the Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa, visited Bloody Mary's for dinner and dined on the charbroiled seafood.

The daily catch is displayed along wooden troughs packed with ice: Mako Shark, Broadbill Swordfish and Grouper; grilled lobster, Red Tuna and Mahi-mahi.

The floor is a soft carpet of white sand and chefs direct you through the preparation guidelines. I grill a swordfish, add half a lobster and accompany with Tahiti's national dish, poisson cru, a twist on ceviche with raw tuna and tomatoes, marinated in lime juice and coconut milk.

Freshly-pressed pineapple juice is soon replaced with HINANO, Tahiti's official beer; and I wibble-wobble on the bicycle back to the beach.

My remaining days, before returning to Tahiti then on to Moorea, are spent on Sofitel's Private Island.

Exceptional sashimi and yellowtail rolls accompany breathtaking views.

I accept that holidaying alone on the world's most romantic island means that making friends is going to be challenging, even broaching conversation gives the impression of a loner in search of a tropical ménage à trois; but I've never had so much fun on my own, it's just a shame it's so very, very far away.

TRAVEL FACTS

For more information on Bora Bora and French Polynesia, visit tahiti-tourisme.co.uk.

Return flights with Air Tahiti Nui (airtahitinui.com) to Tahiti (via LAX with Virgin Atlantic), from £1,514. Several flights per day from Tahiti to Bora Bora with Air Tahiti Nui.  

David stayed at the Sofitel Bora Bora Marara Beach Resort. Click here for more information.










IFTTT

Put the internet to work for you.

Turn off or edit this Recipe

0 comments:

Post a Comment