Travelling in Costa Rica, the happiest place on earth


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Costa Rica, a peaceful gem of a country tucked between Nicaragua and Panama, was recently declared the happiest place on earth.

As I cruise along the rugged Caribbean coastline in my hired Suzuki Jimny 4x4, it is easy to see why.

This tropical paradise – where locals greet you with the phrase 'Pura Vida' (meaning 'pure life') – is filled with long stretches of unspoiled beaches, a rich array of flora and fauna, dense jungles, smouldering volcanoes and serene forests.

Costa Rica is famed for its use of the phrase 'Pura Vida', which roughly translates as 'pure life'

Costa Rica is famed for its use of the phrase 'Pura Vida', which roughly translates as 'pure life'

Costa Rica's Caribbean Coast is home to long stretches of unspoiled beaches and palm trees

Costa Rica's Caribbean Coast is home to long stretches of unspoiled beaches and palm trees

Costa Rica's Caribbean coastline runs 125 miles from the northern Nicaraguan border to the southern border with Panama

Costa Rica's Caribbean coastline runs 125 miles from the northern Nicaraguan border to the southern border with Panama

After touching down in the capital of San Jose (via Madrid – there are currently no direct flights to Costa Rica from the UK) my girlfriend Annie and I elected to head straight for the Caribbean coast.

We had taken the decision to hire a 4x4 Jeep, which in hindsight proved the right move as it gives greater freedom to explore the country, but initially seemed like a disastrous error of judgement.

After picking up the Suzuki Jimny, as day quickly turned to night in the Costa Rican capital and following the 11-hour flight, my first manoeuvre in the foreign vehicle was to drive it out of the Sixt hired car rental and up a steep hill onto the busiest motorway in the country.

All did not go to plan. After jamming Jimny into gear three, I stalled the Jeep five times while precariously kangaroo-hopping into the zooming cars on the motorway. 

The hazard warning lights were on, blind panic had set in and I was even contemplating returning Jimny to the hired car rental.

But thankfully, after being shouted at by irate locals hurling abuse in my direction, I managed to get the Jeep going smoothly and we were soon able to take refuge at a San Jose hotel.

Travellers are strongly advised to hire 4x4 vehicles as many of the roads in Costa Rica are unforgiving - Tom is pictured with his Suzuki Jimny 

Travellers are strongly advised to hire 4x4 vehicles as many of the roads in Costa Rica are unforgiving - Tom is pictured with his Suzuki Jimny 

Tortuguero is nicknamed 'Central America's Amazon' and is teeming with wildlife, including sloths 

Tortuguero is nicknamed 'Central America's Amazon' and is teeming with wildlife, including sloths 

This Jesus Christ lizard (so-called as they walk on water) takes a ride on the back of a turtle 

This Jesus Christ lizard (so-called as they walk on water) takes a ride on the back of a turtle 

In Tortuguero, travellers can spot green iguanas crawling in the dense jungles on early morning wildlife tours

In Tortuguero, travellers can spot green iguanas crawling in the dense jungles on early morning wildlife tours

A group of howler monkeys energetically leap from tree branches - Tortuguero is teeming with wildlife

A group of howler monkeys energetically leap from tree branches - Tortuguero is teeming with wildlife

The next day, I was relieved to see the back of the city and, in truth, most travellers to Costa Rica only stay a short time in the capital simply because there is so much to see in the rest of the country.

Our first stop was Puerto Viejo, a laid-back surfers' town in the southern tip of Costa Rica's Caribbean coast.

With its easy-going Afro-Caribbean culture, where locals sip rum cocktails to the accompaniment of Bob Marley in beachside bars, the Caribbean side displays a unique side of Costa Rica.

In Puerto Viejo, we stayed at the superb Hotel Banana Azul. This charming hotel, located on the spectacular Playa Negra Beach and only a short walk from the town, boasts 14 spacious rooms, an outdoor pool and an enticing range of scrumptious cocktails.

The tranquil hotel, for over 16s only, is the perfect place to relax and unwind. But it also offers a range of more active pastimes, such as white water rafting and ziplining, to satisfy any visitors who have a taste for adrenaline-fuelled activities.

The Manuel Antonio national park, on the Pacific coast, is the best place to spot capuchin monkeys

The Manuel Antonio national park, on the Pacific coast, is the best place to spot capuchin monkeys

The white-faced monkeys can be glimpsed scurrying across the beach and climbing in trees at the national park

The white-faced monkeys can be glimpsed scurrying across the beach and climbing in trees at the national park

Manuel Antonio is also home to sloths who lie lazily in the tree tops - they can also be found at the sloth sanctuary in Cahuita on the Caribbean coast that cares for injured and endangered sloths

Manuel Antonio is also home to sloths who lie lazily in the tree tops - they can also be found at the sloth sanctuary in Cahuita on the Caribbean coast that cares for injured and endangered sloths

We then travelled up the Caribbean coast to Tortuguero (which means 'Land of Turtles') a small village with no cars that can only be reached by boat or air. 

The boat, which leaves from La Pavona or Moin, snakes through a winding jungle river, teeming with wildlife, as it meanders into the village. 

The wildlife around Tortuguero – nicknamed 'Central America's Amazon' – is best explored on an early morning canoe tour when the animals begin to stir. 

On the sun-drenched morning we were lucky enough to spot lazy sloths and howler monkeys in the trees, green iguanas camouflaged in the branches and even a Jesus Christ lizard (so-called as they walk on water) seated on a turtle.

From Tortuguero we journeyed back to the Pacific Coast back via San Jose. This ought to have been a relatively seamless trip, but sadly our boat to the port of Moin broke down, which meant that we had to be rescued by a couple of friendly 'Ticos' and towed the four-hour journey back to land.

Costa Rica was recently declared the happiest place in the world and the most recommended destination to visit 

Costa Rica was recently declared the happiest place in the world and the most recommended destination to visit 

Costa Rica's central Pacific coast is home to some of the country's most splendid beaches and luxury hotels. 

It also includes the Manuel Antonio national park which, although a well-trodden tourist trail, is a must-see on any visit to Costa Rica. 

Here raccoons and capuchin monkeys scurry across idyllic white beaches, cheekily trying to grab the remains of any left-overs from lunch.

In Manuel Antonio we stayed at the Arenas del Mar, a stunning hotel that has breathtaking views over the national park. 

The 40 room hotel, situated on a cliff, exudes space and comfort. Guests are transported in golf buggies and the dedicated staff make every effort to remember eachindividually. Each room has the luxurious perk of being fitted with an open-air bathtub.

Arenas del Mar has direct access to two pristine sand beaches: Espadilla and Playitas and it is a short (albeit sweat-inducing) stroll to the national park.

Kura Design Villas has a 62-foot salt water  pool overlooking the  sand bar in the Marino Ballena national park

Kura Design Villas has a 62-foot salt water pool overlooking the sand bar in the Marino Ballena national park

The drive up to Kura is unforgiving, but the breathtaking views at the top make it more than worthwhile 

The drive up to Kura is unforgiving, but the breathtaking views at the top make it more than worthwhile 

The hotel has stunning views
Wildlife can be spotted in Kura Design Villas

Kura Design Villas near the village of Uvita has stunning views from Dominical to the Osa Peninsula 

Our final stop on our trip was at the spectacular Kura Design Villas further down the Pacific coast in Uvita. The drive up to Kura involves a 20-minute windy ascent up a steep and unforgiving gravel track, but the views at the top make it more than worthwhile.

Each of the six villas has a king-size bed, monsoon shower, a hammock and expansive balcony to take in the magnificent surroundings of the landscape from Dominical to the Osa Peninsula. A pair of binoculars is provided to help spot any wildlife rustling in the trees.

Beyond the palatial rooms, Kura has a 62-foot salt water infinity pool overlooking the whale-tail shaped sand bar in the Marino Ballena national park.

The chic restaurant area, overlooking the pool and same majestic views, serves up a flavoursome variety of Costa Rican fusion food – the sushi and tuna steaks are a particular treat.

On our last evening, as we gazed out over a perfect sunset with the faint ripple of the ocean interrupted only by intermittent birdsong, this tropical paradise seemed like heaven on earth.

Pura vida indeed. 

TRAVEL FACTS

Starting in November this year, Thomson Airways will fly direct to Costa Rica. 

The airline will fly once a week from London's Gatwick Airport and will have a capacity for 291 passengers. 

Kura Design Villas is currently offering a special offer until December 19 where you book three nights and get the fourth free.

High Season (January 6 – April 30): £450

Green Season: (May 1 - Oct 31): £370

Banana Azul rooms start at £60, with the most expensive rooms at £96

Arenas Del Mar, High Season £235 - £520; Green Season £180 - £400 



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