travelling-blogger

comments

In February, when Lady Gaga went on stage at the Oscars, millions of viewers in more than 200 countries saw her perform a tribute to The Sound of Music to mark its 50th anniversary.

In Los Angeles there was a standing ovation when the original star, Julie Andrews, came on stage. 

However, one country was left baffled: Austria, where the movie was set and filmed. 'We didn't really know what was going on,' said one Austrian I know.

Each year, 300,000 people come to Salzburg to soak up the magic and visit the locations of the film – it's the reason three-quarters of all tourists head to the city. 

The beautiful flower beds of at Mirabell Gardens in Salzburg that Sound of Music fans will recognise

Julie Andrews from the beloved film The Sound of Music, fans of which continue to flock to Salzburg

The first tours started shortly after the film opened, but now buses emblazoned with The Sound of Music circle the city, day in, day out. And the Austrians still don't get it. You'll be looking a long time in the Salzburg tourist shops before you find a Julie Andrews postcard for sale, let alone lederhosen fashioned from curtain fabric.

There are some real advantages in this if you're a fan of The Sound of Music. And I am. It means there's nothing to stop me from splashing about in fountains while humming that I have confidence or juggling fruit in the markets (perhaps not a good idea). The Old Town, where much of the movie was shot, is too narrow for tour buses, and that fact – combined with the lack of tourist tat – means there's nothing to break the spell as you slide into The Sound of Music mindset.

Also happily for fans of the film, Salzburg is a pretty conservative sort of place, and doesn't rush about embracing change. Half a century after shooting the movie, Julie Andrews could return to the city and wander round without too many shocks to the system (providing she overlooked the McDonald's on Getreidegasse, sitting uncomfortably amid shops selling Austrian national dress).

For me, Salzburg is the most hummable city ever – although the tunes you find yourself humming are probably not those that would be chosen by the city fathers.

Lady Gaga paid tribute to the film, in the presence of its original star, for its 50 anniversary at the Oscars

Built into the mountains, in medieval times the church harnessed much of the local wealth that came from salt mining – in fact, it still owns a lot of the surrounding land, and built the magnificent monasteries and convents that dominate the city. The real Maria von Trapp – played by Andrews in the film – actually did become a novice at Nonnberg, which was founded in the 8th Century.

Head past here around 7pm and you're still likely to hear the real-life nuns singing Gregorian chants. Bells peel at every opportunity and the mountains – well, it's safe to say they haven't changed much.

On my first trip, more than 20 years ago, I stayed at an independent hostel, the Yoho (www.yoho.at) in Paracelsusstrasse, which I'm pleased to say is still going strong and still showing The Sound Of Music for free each night.

Then it was a solitary outpost of Rodgers and Hammerstein-based enthusiasm, but now there are encouraging signs that the rest of Austria may just be starting to catch on.

Sound of Music tourism began almost immediately after the film's release and is still going strong

My hotel for this trip, the rather more luxurious Castellani Parkhotel, shows the film on a continual loop on one of its TV channels. I could wake up to Climb Ev'ry Mountain and nod off to Sixteen Going On Seventeen. And I did.

It was an ideal base for a Sound of Music weekend. The hotel even has its own wedding chapel – a gorgeous baroque concoction created during its days as an aristocratic mansion.

It has to be said that breakfast doesn't really feature in the film, which is the perfect excuse to start the day with apple strudel.

And the best place to do so? Cafe Tomaselli, Salzburg's oldest, dating from the 18th Century, right in the centre of the city in Alter Markt. The coffee is strong, served in multiple ways, while its strudel has spiced apple and crisp pastry, and is drenched in enough sugar to start an avalanche. Then it's time to tick off a few of the key sights. First up, the Residenzplatz, just outside the cafe. In the movie it's draped with Nazi flags.

Cafe Tomaselli , Salzburg's oldest, dates back to the 18th Century and is in the centre of the city in Alter Markt

Rumour has it that as the Second World War had ended just 20 years earlier, the city authorities weren't keen on the flags, but the producers won them round by saying that the alternative was to use original footage of the German annexation of Austria in the film.

Then there's St Peter's Cemetery – a series of catacombs that the movie's set designers used as inspiration for the flight scenes – and the Felsenreitschule, the open-air theatre that was used for the concert scenes. Now it shows operas and concerts.

As for the Salzach, the river that the city straddles, you cross it via the Mozart bridge, used by Maria and the children as they sang Do-Re-Mi.

The Mirabell Gardens on the other side of the river allow an even fuller expression of appreciation for the film. Pat the head of the stone dwarf; jump up and down the steps; run about a lot! Many people do it and – even more hearteningly – post the results on YouTube. And all the time, Austrians are just enjoying walking in the gardens, completely oblivious, next to a palace built by an archbishop for his 15 children (particularly noteworthy in a Catholic country).

Residenzplatz, just outside Cafe Tomaselli, was draped in Nazi flags in the 50-year-old film

But to really immerse yourself in the full experience, and to see the more outlying locations, you have to take a tour. I've taken a few in my time – I tend to feel them calling me each time I head to Salzburg, just as Maria felt the mountains calling her.

Over the years I've been accompanied on them by groups ranging from unthrilled Austrians to up-for-it Australians in dirndls who had us singing the different parts of The Lonely Goatherd as we headed into the mountains.

This time, however, I was accompanied by Gerry, an Austrian who'd actually seen the film, as well as Brits (loads), Americans, and a family from Malaysia.

We headed to Hellbrunn, where the gazebo from Sixteen Going On Seventeen is now housed (and now locked after too many fans tried to leap from bench to bench and injured themselves).

We also passed the house that served as the main location for the von Trapp family home. It's now part of the Mozarteum Music Academy, and the easiest way to stay there is to become a top-flight musician.

Sarah Turner found herself singing along to The Lonely Goatherd with up-for-it Australians in dirndls

We then started climbing our way into the mountains that feature in the opening shots – now augmented with nice chalets, as this area is a popular escape for posh Austrians and Germans – and gazed down at the town of Fuschl and its lake, one of Austria's most famous views.

Finally, we arrived at Mondsee. This lakeside town provided the church used for the wedding. About 70 per cent of the people on the trip (there is an over-representation of women) took the chance to walk down the aisle. Needless to say, I was among them.

I emerged, blinking, into the sunlight to enjoy cake shops and, amazingly, a shop selling film memorabilia. I felt thrilled. It seemed the whole world was now united in its love for this movie – even Austrians themselves.

What's more, the state theatre in Salzburg – the Landestheater – now even has a production of The Sound Of Music. It's only taken 50 years.

There's just one thing to remember. Edelweiss is not the Austrian national anthem, whatever Ronald Reagan thought. He once arranged to have it played when the Austrian ambassador arrived at the White House.