travelling-blogger

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Back in the 1890s, the Hurtigruten Mail ships used to ferry passengers and supplies along Norway's rugged coastline. And the tradition continues today, with human cargo transported from Bergen to Kirkenes and all ports in between.

My adventure starts at the town of Tromso (pronounced Tromsa), inside the Arctic Circle. Lots of places call themselves 'the gateway to...', but Tromso really is a frontier town, where you can feel the full force of the Arctic.

I'm enjoying wandering around in layers of wool. I must look the part because two builders pull over in their truck to ask me directions. I feel chuffed. And then suddenly my ship comes in.

Tromso in Norway really is a frontier town where you can feel the full force of the Arctic

Tromso Harbour, where our writer Mark Williams' Northern Lights cruise journey began

Father Brown and Harry Potter star Mark Williams

The Kong Harald completely dominates the quayside - and on we trundle. It's straight to the cabin to unpack.

Ship cabins are marvellous for stowage because everything has to be secure to avoid breakage, so if you enjoy a cubby-hole, you'll love this. There's no TV, no radio, and a porthole the size of a bathmat. The beds are single with a patent couchette system so the sofa spins over and underneath is the mattress, with crisp linen and a proper Scandinavian duvet.

It's time for a sundowner before we leave port. Arvid runs the bar. He's been at sea all his life. The captain may think he rules this ship, but it's Arvid's home, and we are his guests.

Like all great barmen he makes people feel comfortable enough to drink and relax, but not comfortable enough to misbehave.

At 18.15 we're off. North. I ask a chatty man if there is a difference between the northern and southern Norwegian accents and he answers: 'Yes, in the south the endings of the words go up, and in the north the endings of the words go down.'

The Kong Harald cruise ship, the vessel for the five-day voyage, where Arvid's bar really is the hub

The food is good on board. We have cauliflower soup (tasty and comforting), Arctic char (perfectly cooked fish), rice pudding and some delicious wine. I have an Austrian Grüner Veltliner.

Suddenly, there's an announcement from the bridge, followed by a mini stampede to the promenade deck. It's dark and cloudy, but there's something behind the clouds. 

They clear, and there above us all are the Northern Lights. Much brighter than I had imagined, extra-terrestrial, silent, solemn and very beautiful. Imagine you have never seen a rainbow before, and then you do.

I feel blessed, as the light pulsates, moves, dances. Extraordinary.

The Northern Lights 'pulsate, move and dance, Williams writes, as seen from the deck of the Hurtigruten

It's March - and grey. But Norway does grey like England does green. I never get bored watching that beautiful sea through my porthole, the wave crests, gulls, snow, cliffs, seals and clouds, all grey turning always to silver when lit.

At one point, there's a knot-tying class on deck, after which I opt to go on a dog-sled excursion in Kirkenes, on the borders of Russia and Finland.

Here there is a local freedom of movement so the Norwegians go to Russia to shop for vodka and the Russians come to Norway to shop for nappies.

Kirkenes is also a centre for the sport of dog-sledding, and husky teams are a status symbol. There are about 50 private teams and the major races are a big deal.

A team of huskies lead a sled through the snow of Kirkenes, on the borders of Russia and Finland

When you see photos of the great polar explorers with their sled teams, the animals are big. Here, they were trim and athletic. It's much faster than I imagined. The dogs are keen to run, and stopping them can be a problem.

We are nomadic, some of us more than others. A journey is a marvellous thing and this one made me want to go further north to see the polar bears of Svalbard; to stand on the ice that floats on the top of the world, to see a Narwhal or a sea lion not in a zoo.

There is nothing as restful as curiosity.